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dy*nam*ic (adjective)
1. Full of energy, enthusiasm, and a
sense of purpose. 2. Characterized by
spirited activity and producing or
undergoing change and development. |
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Dry, Semi-moist, or Canned - What Type of Food is Best for Your Pet?
Katharine Hillestad, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith Veterinary Services Department  As with many things, there is no one-size-fits-all answer to this question. Your pet is an individual, and when making a decision about what type of diet to feed, you need to consider, among other things, your pet's age, size, breed, and any existing medical problems. And of course, you also need to consider the nutrient content of the diet you feed. We always recommend feeding a premium-quality diet that meets AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control) guidelines for the lifestage of the dog. We prefer a diet with meat as the first or second ingredient listed, and without any artificial preservatives or colors.
Generally, we do not recommend the semi-moist types of food, because they tend to be quite high in salt and sugar. Cats and dogs do not need this much salt and sugar in their diet. In addition, sticky, sugary foods can contribute to dental disease.
While dental caries (cavities) is related in people to the amount of sugar in the diet, dental caries is infrequent in dogs and unusual in cats. Tooth loss in both cats and dogs is much more commonly associated with gingivitis and periodontal disease, where inflammation and infection of the gum tissue causes loosening and retraction of the gum tissue around the tooth, which eventually leads to tooth loss. Sticky, sugary foods can contribute to the development of gingivitis and periodontal disease. In general, we recommend a premium-quality dry or canned food.
For large-breed dogs, most people choose a dry food, for several reasons. Larger breed dogs require a larger amount of food than smaller dogs, and dry food is easy to transport, store and prepare. Because canned food contains a much larger percentage of water (usually 80-85%) than dry foods (usually 10% or less), dry food is usually more economical to feed on a per-serving basis, especially when feeding a premium-quality food.
Many people also choose to feed their pets dry food in the belief that dry kibble has a significant scraping or wiping action on the teeth and will slow the accumulation of plaque and tartar. Dry food does exercise the mouth during chewing. However, the average dry kibble actually does not provide very much scraping action. When the tip of a tooth comes into contact with regular dry kibble, the kibble shatters before the tooth can penetrate far enough into it for any scraping to take place. There are specially designed dental diets on the market, with a kibble designed to hold together longer, allowing more tooth contact before the kibble breaks apart. This does allow for more of a wiping effect on the tooth, but even these diets are not a replacement for good dental care. While canned foods may promote somewhat faster accumulation of plaque and tartar, plaque and tartar will still eventually accumulate no matter what type of food is fed. Regular home care, yearly dental exams, and professional cleanings as needed will still be essential for optimum dental health.
Smaller breeds of dogs obviously eat less than larger dogs, and so canned foods may be more of an option cost-wise here. However, smaller breed dogs often have more crowded teeth, providing areas where plaque and tartar easily accumulate. Sometimes owners tell us that their dog is used to canned food, and refuses to eat dry food. These dogs can still be fed canned food, but home care needs to be especially emphasized, and these dogs are likely to need a yearly professional cleaning.
Until recently, dry food was usually recommended most often for cats, also. However, recent research in feline nutrition is causing some re-thinking in this area. The typical dry cat food is quite high in carbohydrates (often 45% or more) and there is some indication that this may pre-dispose certain cats to becoming overweight and possibly developing diabetes as they get older. The typical diet of cats in the wild (which usually is mostly mice and other small rodents) is thought to be about 45% protein, 45% fat, and only 4-5% carbohydrates. Dry pet food requires a fairly high carbohydrate content in order for the kibble pieces to stick together. However, canned food is typically much lower in carbohydrate content (about 10%). Some veterinary nutritionists are recommending that cats, especially those with a tendency toward obesity, be fed a canned diet with a protein, fat, and carbohydrate content as close as possible to a 'wild' diet. Interestingly, early reports seem to indicate that a canned diet does not seem to increase dental disease in these cats. More research is needed, but this is a very interesting finding.
It is important to note that specific health conditions may affect the type of diet that is recommended for your animal. For example, cats with urinary tract problems or animals with kidney disease may benefit from increased water in their diet, and feeding canned food can help with this. Always consult with your veterinarian before making any changes to your pet's diet.
References
'Catkins Diet'. DVM Newsmagazine, August 2004; 24.
Hand, MS; Thatcher, CD; Remillard, RL; Roudebush, P (ed.) Small Animal Clinical Nutrition, 4th edition. Walsworth Publishing. Marceline, MO; 2000;475-504.
© 2007 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208
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How Much to Feed A Dog to Meet His Energy Needs
Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc. One of the most common questions that I am asked concerning dogs is how much to feed them. While this seems like a very straightforward question, there are actually some unique circumstances that make this question very difficult to answer. This article will help to explain those circumstances and will help pet owners choose the right amount of food for their dog.
The importance of knowing how much dog food to feed
I once had an elderly client that bred and raised Labrador Retrievers. Whenever she brought her dogs in to the clinic I was consistently impressed with the fact that they were always about the perfect weight with beautiful coats and good muscle tone. Finally, one day I asked her what her secret was that allowed her to feed her dogs in such a way that they were always the perfect weight. She thought for a few seconds and then leaned forward and in a serious whisper divulged, "when they are skinny I feed 'em more and when they get fat I feed 'em less." Years and hundreds of nutritional consultations later, I am still impressed with the simplistic truth of that statement. Despite our determined efforts to devise a 'one size fits all formula' that will tell us exactly how much to feed a dog of a given weight, we still do not have one, and it is very unlikely that we ever will.
What that owner displayed was years of experience that allowed her to make slight adjustments in the dogs' diets to keep them at the perfect weight. Unfortunately, most owners do not have years of experience and hundreds of dogs under their care to allow them to become good at regulating their dogs' caloric intake. Yet, maintaining the proper weight is critical to ensuring good health in your dog. Underweight dogs often suffer from poor muscle tone, delayed healing, loss of energy, and metabolic and reproductive disorders. Overweight dogs, which are much more common, suffer from arthritic problems, an increase incidence of metabolic disease including diabetes and liver problems, as well as a lack of energy, and an increase in skin problems. They may also have a shortened life expectancy. The health benefits from providing proper nutrition in the correct amount are immeasurable.
What the pet food labels say
There is one readily available source of information concerning feeding amounts. Every bag of food has a suggested feeding guideline based on the weight of the dog. But there are several problems with these guidelines. First, there is usually a wide range of recommended quantities to be fed. Second, determining a quantity to be fed based on weight is an extremely inaccurate way of feeding. Third, there is little consistency between brands in the recommended quantities to be fed. For example, I did a quick survey of the labels of three of the most popular brands of dog food. They were all adult maintenance formulas with fairly similar ingredients, levels of fats, proteins, fiber, etc. All three labels had different recommendations on the total daily amount to be fed. One recommended 1¾ cups, the second recommended 2 cups, and the third stated 2¾ cups. This is a discrepancy of over 50% in recommended feeding amounts between three of the most similar types of dog food. What happens when you take into account puppy, senior, performance, and low fat foods? It is little wonder consumers are confused on this issue. The point is that the amount on the back of the bag is rarely the amount that should be fed, but should be considered a rough starting point.
Understanding your dog's energy needs
 The first step in understanding your dog's energy requirements is realizing that there is no set formula for determining your dog's individual needs. For people, it is fairly simple to calculate your recommended daily caloric requirements based upon your weight because, as people, we are all relatively similar compared to dogs. As a person, if you want to know how many daily calories you should consume all you have to do is look on a chart and there it is, give or take a few percentages for activity level and age. But with dogs, there are huge differences between breeds, size, growth rates in puppies, activity levels, skin and coat thicknesses, and living conditions. For example, compare the energy needs of a young Malamute living outdoors and learning to pull a dog sled to that of an adult Pomeranian living in a heated apartment, and the pound for pound difference in caloric needs could be over tenfold. Those kind of differences rarely happen in humans and these differences are why it is so difficult to have a set answer for how much a dog should be fed.
Table 1 gives some guidelines that nutritionists use for calculating caloric needs for dogs. This table is based upon a dog's Resting Energy Requirements or RER. The RER is the basic amount of energy that a dog would use in a day while remaining at rest. The formula to calculate RER for animals between 2 and 45 kg (5 - 99 pounds) is:
RER in kcal/day = 30(body weight in kilograms) + 70
Any activity or variable other than rest will require an increase in energy (RER) and an increase in calories to meet the energy needs. Realize that these numbers are not a reflection of maintenance calories but of resting energy levels. For example, a normal adult dog with normal activity is already at 1.6 times the resting energy requirement.
Table 1. | Activity levels and daily energy requirements | | Activity | Daily Energy Requirements | | Weight loss | 1.0 x RER | | Neutered adult normal activity | 1.6 x RER | | Intact adult normal activity | 1.8 x RER | | Light work | 2.0 x RER | | Moderate work | 3.0 x RER | | Heavy work | 4-8 x RER | | Pregnant dog (first 42 days) | 1.8 x RER | | Pregnant dog (last 21 days) | 3.0 x RER | | Lactating female | 4-8 x RER | | Puppy - weaning to 4 months | 3.0 x RER | | Puppy - 4 months to adult size | 2.0 x RER |
While this table does not tell us how much we need to feed our dog, it does show the significant variability in a dog's energy requirements based upon his activity. Remember that this table does not take into account characteristics like breed differences, air temperature, and coat insulation, which can additionally alter an individual dog's energy requirement as much or more than any of the activities listed above.
How to feed your individual dog
So where should you start? The first place to start is with the food itself. Feeding a poor quality food is never a good idea because in addition to actually being more expensive because of the increased quantities needed to fulfill nutritional requirements, it also produces more waste. It is also more likely to create digestive or behavioral problems. So, to begin, choose a high quality food and look at the recommendations on the label to get your starting point. From there you need to have an accurate weight of the dog and a projected target weight, whether it is an adult on a diet or a growing puppy. Look at the table above and get an idea of your dog's activity level. Remember to factor in the other environmental variables and any additional calories in the form of treats or table foods, and adjust the starting amount accordingly. Ask your veterinarian's opinion on what your dog's ideal weight should be and factor that into your feeding amount. Remember that most dogs are overfed and underexercised so, if in doubt, I usually tell people to feed a little less. After you have started feeding the amount that you have calculated that your dog needs, then you need to weigh your dog at least monthly to determine if the amount fed is appropriate. If necessary, increase or decrease the amount of food slightly until the dog stays at his ideal weight. A handy trick for weighing your dog on a bathroom scale is to weigh yourself while you hold the dog and then weigh yourself without the dog and subtract the difference.
Adjusting to change
As you can observe from the table above, the amount of food that you feed your dog will change throughout your dog's life. Most weight problems develop slowly and will often begin when a dog goes through the transition from a growing puppy to an adult. The adult dog's appetite is often greater than his need. Another time during a dog's life at which weight gain occurs is when an adult dog becomes a senior and his activity level decreases. By being aware of the need to adjust your dog's calories and performing periodic weight checks, you can avoid overfeeding during these problematic transition times.
Knowing how much food to feed your dog can be a confusing problem. Start out with a quality food, note the feeding recommendations on the bag, add or decrease the amount fed depending on your dog's activity level and housing environment, and then start feeding that amount. From there, by carefully monitoring the dog's weight and making adjustments as needed, you can keep your dog at his perfect and healthiest possible weight.
References
Hand; Thatcher; Remillard; Roudebush. Small Animal Clinical Nutrition 4th Edition. Walsworth Publishing Company. Marceline, MO; 2000.
Lewis, L; Morris, M; Hand, M. Small Animal Clinical Nutrition 3rd Edition. Mark Morris Associates. Topeka, KS; 1987.© 2007 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com
(http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208
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Treats are Better Than Table Scraps
Marty Smith, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc. Most of us are guilty of sneaking a tasty table scrap to our pets during or after dinner. While there is not anything inherently wrong with giving your pet an occasional morsel left on your plate, there are some very good reasons to limit your handouts to treats made for dogs. Giving dogs a bit of leftover lean meat, non-buttered vegetables, and a little rice will not cause problems, but unfortunately, many people do not stop there.
Once a moocher, always a moocher.
Once you reward begging behavior with table scraps or something off your plate, you can expect to see the same hopeful eyes looking up at you every meal from that day forward. That is fine if you do not mind, but if you have a dog that whines, the behavior may disrupt your dinner. If you do mind, you will have a hard time training your dog to stay out of the room now that he knows he just might get a handout. Also, some dinner guests do not appreciate a tongue-wagging dog at their elbow while they try to eat their meal.
Table scraps do not offer the nutrition dogs need.
The more you fill your pet up with your food the less likely he is to eat his own. And since our nutritional needs are not the same as our dogs', your dog will get less of the vitamins and minerals he needs and probably more of those he does not need. Quality dog treats are developed with your dog's nutritional needs in mind.
Table scraps are the quickest route to weight problems.
Many times scraps are nothing more than empty calories. And since you probably save that hunk of fat or sweet morsel you know your dog will like, he gets all the wrong food for a trim waistline. Overweight pets, besides not looking their best, have a higher risk of many health problems.
Table scraps are a leading cause of digestive disorders.
The rich foods we eat can wreak havoc on your dog's digestive tract. A simple, consistent diet keeps their system functioning as it should. Throw in your very different foods and spices and do not be surprised if your dog has bad gas, bad breath, loose stools, etc.
You could end up with a finicky eater.
If your dog develops a taste for your food, he may stop eating his own. After all, which would you prefer, dry dog food or juicy steak and hamburger every night?
You may create a thief.
Pets that are used to eating human food are more likely to devour the turkey leftovers you left unattended on the kitchen table. Or bury their heads in the garbage can to get at that fish you 'forgot' to give them. As you know, many bones, chocolate, and other food items can be dangerous to your dog.
Treats are a better choice.
A dog treat gives you and your dog the same satisfaction as giving or receiving a table scrap. It promotes that special bond between you and your dog, it gives your pet a new, delicious taste to savor, and it makes both of you feel good.
Quality dog treats are usually more nutritious and tend to have far fewer calories than most table scraps. Liver products are great treats because they provide nutrients your dog is unlikely to obtain from any other food source.
There are other benefits, too, depending on the type of treat you buy. Biscuit-type treats are good for your dog's teeth as they help scrape off plaque and tartar that can cause dental problems. Rawhide satisfies a dog's urge to chew, relieves boredom, and is also good for teeth. Treats also do not encourage bad behavior. In fact, it is usually the opposite. Treats can be used during training to reward good behavior, but be careful not to overdo it.
As with anything in life, treats should be used in moderation. Too many treats can add weight and affect your dog's meals. As a rule, treats should never account for more than 10% of your dog's food intake. Your dog's food is his sole source for the nutrition he needs, so do not 'fill' your pet up on treats before meal time. Remember, no chocolate, no bones that splinter easily, and no high-fat, greasy foods.
© 2007 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208
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Nutritional Needs of Seniors
Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc. Dogs are living to a much older age than they did 30 years ago. There are many factors contributing to this including better vaccines and veterinary care, but one of the most important factors is better nutrition. The older dog is undergoing many physiologic changes, and because of these changes, it is recommended that you feed them differently than when they were a puppy. I am often asked, 'What is the definition of an older dog?' I generally consider a dog to be 'older' if he is in the last third of his normal life expectancy. For example, a large breed dog such as a Great Dane that normally lives to be 9 years old, would be considered older when he reached age 6. A Poodle that normally lives to 15 years, would be older at 10 years of age. There are many exceptions to this rule of course and if a dog is active and in good shape, he should continue to be fed and exercised as a younger dog would. I know many 11-year-old sled and hunting dogs that need to be treated and exercised like three-year-olds.
Changes as a result of aging
 As dogs age, they will undergo several different changes. They may undergo behavioral changes associated with arthritis or old age cognitive dysfunction. They may not be tolerant of small children and may have restless sleep, accidents in the house (urinary incontinence), or occasional periods of disorientation. Their vision may begin to fade a little and they may have difficulty seeing in low light situations. They also may have a loss of hearing and may be easily surprised or startled. They will not have the muscle strength or mass that they had as young dogs. They are going to be less active and need a warm comfortable bed. Their teeth are going to be worn and they may lose some teeth or be prone to dental disease. In addition, they might start to develop conditions associated with old age such as kidney failure or heart disease. For all of these reasons, special care must be given to their diet.
Tendencies to be overweight
Because of decreased activity, many older dogs will gain weight. Obesity is a common problem in the older dog, and because they do not exercise as much, weight loss can be very difficult. It is much better to not let your dog get overweight than to try to make her lose weight when she gets older. But if she is overweight, then work very hard to get the extra weight off. It is one of the single most important things you can do to increase the quality and length of life for your pet.
Characteristics of 'senior' diets
The older dog is going to need a good, well balanced diet that is lower in calories, protein, and fat and higher in fiber. For some older dogs, we can continue to feed their regular food, but in a smaller quantity. Specially formulated senior diets are lower in calories and help to create a feeling of fullness while providing fewer calories. Commercially prepared senior diets have a protein of around 18% (on a dry matter basis) whereas diets for dogs in renal failure are around 14% protein. If your dog has significantly decreased kidney function, then a diet that is lower in protein will lower the workload for the kidneys. Lower fat usually translates to lower calories so many senior diets have a fat level of around 8 to 12%. Older dogs are more prone to develop constipation, so senior diets are higher in fiber at around 3 to 5%. Wheat bran can be added to regular dog food to increase the amount of fiber. If your older dog will eat dry food, it will help to control tartar build-up and reduce gum disease.
Getting older dogs to eat
Some older dogs suffer not from obesity, but from the other extreme of old age obesity; lack of weight gain and disinterest in food. If your dog is getting thin and not eating well, he should have a complete veterinary exam to rule out any possible disease problems. If everything checks out, then trying to get the dog to eat is the next challenge. If a dog normally eats dry food, he may have decreased consumption because he has a hard time chewing the large kibble. By feeding a kibble with smaller pieces or moistening the food with water, it will be easier to chew. Adding canned food or broth to the food will make it more appealing. Some dogs prefer cat food and will eat that readily, but this is often quite high in protein and should be avoided, if possible. Small amounts of canned cat food may be mixed with the dog kibble to provide more flavor. Some dogs can tolerate a small amount of milk or eggs added to the food. Homemade diets of boiled rice, potatoes, vegetables, and chicken or hamburger with correct vitamin and mineral supplements works well with others. Ask your veterinarian which homemade diet recipe would be best for your dog.
Supplements for older dogs
Aging dogs have special nutritional needs, and some of those can be supplied in the form of supplements. A large percentage of older dogs suffer from arthritis. By feeding a daily supplement containing glucosamine and chondroitin, you can reverse and prevent future damage to the cartilage in the joints. These supplements have been shown to be very safe and effective and do not require a prescription. If your dog is not eating a complete balanced diet, then a vitamin/mineral supplement is recommended to prevent any deficiencies. Some owners like to feed antioxidants like our Antioxidant Oxi-Tabs supplement. As mentioned earlier, a fiber product such as wheat bran may help to reduce the incidence of constipation.
Summary
Older dogs are undergoing many different physiological changes. To keep up with these changes, it is recommended that a diet that is suited for older dogs be fed. Remember to keep up with the exercise and keep the weight under control. Your older dog needs regular veterinary checkups, and you may need to consider some of the nutritional supplements. By following some of these basic principles, you can make these golden years some of the best years of your dog's life.
© 2007 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208
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